Thank you for inquiring about our wonderful and noble breed. This booklet has been designed to help you, as a potential Rottweiler owner, determine if the Rottweiler is the dog for you, and if it is, to make a well educated choice when selecting a puppy and a breeder. Those of us who own a Rottweiler think it is the perfect dog, and it is - for us; however, the Rottweiler is not the dog for everyone.

In 1995, the Rottweiler was the 2nd most popular dog, according to AKC registration figures, with 93,656 Rottweilers having been registered. As a breed gains in popularity, more and more people become involved in the breeding of these dogs; the Rottweiler is no exception to this trend. The majority of these people do not love the breed, they are only interested in the money to be made; a few years down the road they will be the “breeders” of the new “in” dog. These “breeders are not interested in educating potential puppy owners, nor will they be there for you when you have a problem with your puppy, whether it is a week after you take your puppy home or 5 years later. These same “breeders” will breed any and all specimens of Rottweilers, even those with physical and/or temperament problems, all of which may be inherited by the offspring. These “breeders” are the same ones who claim, “Rottweilers don’t have a problem with Hip Dysplasia,” or “that doesn’t run in my line”! Unfortunately, some wonderful Rottweiler homes end up with a puppy who is physically and/or mentally inferior and have to put up with all the emotional and economic expense of owning such a dog.

The Colonial Rottweiler Club cares about the future of our breed and feels that education of the public is one of the most effective ways to put an end to indiscriminate breeding of the Rottweiler. Hopefully, this booklet will first of all help you decide if the Rottweiler is the breed for you or if another breed of dog would be more suitable and secondly will help you find a reputable breeder and a good puppy.

An educated choice is a wise choice.

We hope you find the following articles interesting and informative. The current CRC Breeders list is enclosed, as well as a listing of the current Club Officers and Board of Directors.

We have also taken the liberty of enclosing a membership application. We hope that if you do purchase a Rottweiler that you will consider joining our club. CRC is an organization composed of concerned Rottweiler owners and serves as a vehicle of communication for those who care about the future of the breed. We are the oldest Rottweiler club still in existence today, having been formed in 1956. In addition, we are a Code of Ethics club. This means that members agree to “breed discriminately and only upon strong evidence of the possibility of finding suitable homes for the resulting puppies.” All members sign and agree to abide by the Code; it is not a limiting document for those who are ethical breeders.

CRC conducts an annual Specialty Show in the spring, sponsors a fall Match Show, supports several area shows, and holds various other activities throughout the year. Members also receive a bimonthly newsletter which lists upcoming events, highlights members dogs, gives advice and tips to show and pet owners alike, carries informative articles about health problems, new discoveries in the field of medicine and how-to’s for tracking, showing, obedience, and pet ownership problems.

 If you have any further questions, please feel free to contact one of us.

The Colonial Rottweiler Club

SELECTING THE RIGHT DOG FOR YOU.

Is there such a thing as the right dog for you? Yes, if you put a little effort into finding him. Most people put too little time and thought into choosing their pet - they often put more effort into selecting a new car! It is important to remember you will be sharing your life with the dog you select for the next 8-15 years. Many dog owners if they could do it over again, would not have picked the dog they did or even chosen a dog as their pet. So why not take the time and become an informed and responsible dog owner and find the best dog for you.

 Many people have no idea how to determine which dog, if any dog, is right for them. The following list of questions should help you decide if a dog is the pet for you and then help you select the right breed. Most of these questions do not have right or wrong answers; they are meant to get you thinking.

1. Why do you want a pet? Are you certain you want a dog and why?

2. What size dog do you want? Are you sure you want to start with a puppy or would an older, trained dog meet your needs better?

3. Where do you live and/or plan to live? Does your landlord permit pets? Are you aware of a leash law or other dog related ordinances in your community?

4. Where will you keep the dog? Is your yard or a portion of your yard fenced?

5. How do other family members feel about a dog? What are the daily schedules of the family members and how will a dog fit in?

6. Do you prefer a dog with long or short hair?  Do you like to groom? Do you mind dog hair on things? Is anyone in the family allergic to dogs?

7. Do you prefer a male or female? Why?

8. Which breeds are you considering? Why? Are these breeds suitable for your purposes and compatible with your lifestyle? A St. Bernard is not the best choice for a studio apartment, nor is a Toy Poodle the dog to take hunting.

9. Have you owned dogs before? Which breeds? Did that breed suit your needs? Why/why not? Did you train them yourself or did someone else?

10. How much time to you have to care for a dog? Are you willing to go to dog obedience school? Do you have the time and patience to work with him daily in order to have a well mannered dog?  

11. Do you have any other pets now? What kinds and ages? How will a new dog effect them?

12. Do you have children or are children frequent visitors to your home? How many and how old are they? Are any children anticipated in the future? Do you have the time to supervise the interaction between the puppy and the children?

13. Are you familiar with crate training?

14. Will your dog interfere with your other activities? Do you plan to travel a great deal? What will you do with the dog while you are gone?

15. What can you afford to pay for a dog? Consider not only the purchase price, but the lifetime costs: initial vaccinations and yearly boosters; food; collars; leads; dishes; heartworm preventive; training classes; neutering; tattooing; everyday ills; major illness or surgery; licenses; doggie treats; toys; boarding fees when you go away; etc.

16. How much exercise will your dog need? Who in the family will be responsible for walking him?

17. Do you have lots of time especially during the first 4 to 6 months after you bring him home? Socialization is extremely important and the new puppy must be taken everywhere and exposed to all sorts of situations in order to build his confidence. The majority of dogs who bite do so out of fear. A new puppy cannot be left home to grow up alone.

18. Do you want a show quality or pet quality puppy?

19. Are you interested in showing? Do you have the time and money to campaign this dog to a championship? Do you know what this entails? Do you like going to shows? Will you show the dog yourself or will you hire a handler? Do you want to eventually breed this dog? Why? Do you have the time and money to properly care for a litter of pups? Before selecting a puppy you need to familiarize yourself with the AKC standard of the breed.

20. What other dog activities would you like to be involved in? Tracking? Obedience? Schutzhund? Agility? Herding? Search & Rescue Work? Therapy Work? Carting? etc. Are the breeds you are interested in suitable for this activity?

This list of questions is rather long, but if answered honestly, should help you make a well thought out choice. Perhaps you will find out that you would be better off with a Cocker Spaniel rather than the Rottweiler you thought you wanted, or maybe you will decide you’d rather have a cat, or even that there is no room in your life right now for any kind of pet! What’s most important is that your decision is the right one for you. Remember, whatever pet you choose will be sharing your life for the next 8 - 15 years.

If you still think you want a new pup, then get a book(s) on dog breeds from a library and decide which ones you’d like to learn more about. Carefully evaluate your answers to the above questions and considering each breed’s mental and physical characteristics make a list of breeds that will best suit your needs. Dogs can’t change their instincts and a dog whose needs aren’t being met can become very frustrated and give rise to all sorts of problems.

Once you have narrowed down your possible choices, write to the specific breed clubs for information on the breed(s) you are considering. Usually their information will discuss the bad, as well as the good, features of their breed. (Contact AKC for the addresses of the specific breed clubs.) Visit or speak on the telephone with as many breeders as possible and/or go to a dog show and talk to the breeders and owners of these breeds of dogs. Be sure to ask about the good and bad points of their particular breed(s). (A helpful hint: when approaching these people at a dog show - if their breed is in the ring, just ask if you may speak with them after the judge is finished. It is very difficult, not to mention annoying, for a breeder/owner to talk with a novice and try to watch his dog in the ring at the same time.) Visit a local groomer to clarify the grooming needs of the type of dog(s) you are considering. You also might want to go to a dog training school and discuss any training problems that might be potential problems with the breed(s) of your choice.

Let all the family members who will be involved in the care and feeding of this new member of the family, especially any kids who are old enough to participate, be involved in this process of selecting the right puppy. As a part of the decision process, it is a good idea to set up the ground rules: what will and will not be allowed with the dog, who will be doing what, etc.

The arrival of a new puppy is exciting! Taking a little time beforehand in order to make an educated and well thought out choice, will make it the positive and pleasurable experience it is meant to be.

c Marilyn Piusz 1989

INTRODUCING THE ROTTWEILER

The Rottweiler is a robust, powerful and loyal breed with pronounced protective instincts. He is an outstanding companion and guard, but ownership of a Rottweiler carries much greater than average legal and moral responsibilities, due to traits possessed by this breed, its size and strength. The following information is offered as a guide to prospective Rottweiler buyers who may or may not be aware of the special qualities possessed by this breed, both positive and negative, so that they can make a more accurate estimate of their needs in relation to the demands of Rottweiler ownership. The Rottweiler is not a breed which fits into every home.

SIZE: Males range from 24" to 27" at the shoulder and 95 - 135 lbs. in weight. Females are somewhat smaller: 22" to 25" and 80 to 100 lbs. Animals can be found which are taller or shorter than the measurements given here; however, they would not be considered typical by the breed standard. The Rottweiler is very strong for its size. It has been used in Europe to pull carts and retains the compact musculature desirable in a draft animal. A full-grown adult can easily knock a person down, and for this reason the breed is not recommended for the elderly or physically infirm person. Obedience training is a must because of the animal’s size and strength; you must be able to maintain complete control of your animals at all times.

COLOR: Rottweilers are always black with markings ranging from tan or light brown to rust or mahogany; the darker shades being more desirable. Pigmentation of the eyes and mouth should be dark; light eyes and pink mouths are considered faults.

TEMPERAMENT: Rottweilers vary from natural clowns, who are affectionate to almost anyone, to the very reserved, one-person dog. Ideally, they should be calm but alert companions. These dogs often follow their masters from place to place in the home, keeping a constant and sometimes obtrusive watch over their loved one. Nervous, shy, very excitable or hyperactive animals are exhibiting traits which are undesirable in a dog the size and nature of the Rottweiler and should be avoided.

AGGRESSIVENESS: This trait varies with the individual to some degree, although all have a strong, territorial instinct and if socialized properly as a puppy, will defend their master’s home, car, and property from intruders. Rottweilers have also been known to bully or bluff their owners or other family members, a trait that is most disconcerting. This problem can be prevented through early obedience training.

PROTECTION INSTINCT: Many families have purchased a Rottweiler for this trait, only to discover later that it brings with it a considerable moral and legal responsibility. Problems can arise quickly; strangers must never come into your home or yard unannounced, the dog doesn’t know the difference between a burglar or your brother. Your Rottweiler must be carefully schooled to accept your friends into your home, but physical contact or rough-housing should be approached carefully until the dog realizes it’s all in fun. People expected to be in contact with the dog while owners are absent should be thoroughly familiar to the dog. Although they do not usually bite without provocation, even being cornered and held by one of the dogs is a very unnerving experience for meter men, gardeners, or neighbors coming into the yard while the owner is absent.

TRAINING: This breed has been developed for its working ability and often blooms when given a chance to work with its master, although there are occasional exceptions. It is very necessary to establish your control over the animal and obedience training is often the easiest and most rewarding way to do so. Your breeder should be able to provide you with guidance in the selection of a training class; however, avoid the very rough trainer. Rottweilers can often be controlled using verbal reprimands, and while they occasionally require strong physical corrections, some trainers tend to be much rougher on this breed than is necessary. Women have been very successful with the dogs in obedience and Schutzhund work. Physical mastery of the dog is often less important than sensitive and positive training methods, time, and patience.

DISCIPLINE: The Rottweiler is a sensitive, intelligent and loyal animal and usually wants to please its owner. Occasionally, it can be quite stubborn though, and requires more attention. It is imperative that discipline be consistent, fair, and firm, without being overly rough. Ownership is not for the timid or very busy person who cannot or is not inclined toward careful supervision of his or her pet.

SMALL CHILDREN IN THE HOME: The adaptability of the Rottweiler to small children varies with the individual animal. Many are very tolerant and loving towards toddlers; others resent the sometimes rough treatment an unknowing child can inflict. One serious problem is the size of the dog. Families have been forced to give up much beloved pets because the dog inadvertently caused injuries to small children in the family by bumping into them and knocking them down or into furniture. This bumping is a natural behavior in the Rottweiler, a legacy from the days when the breed used to herd cattle in Europe. They will bump and “herd” children, adults, and other pets and this can be a problem if your home contains small children or elderly family members. Some breeders recommend waiting until children are at least school age and preferably older, before introducing a Rottweiler into the home. The amount of space in your home, the age of your children, and the amount of time the dog will be in contact with the children should be part of your decision.

OTHER PETS IN THE HOME: Rottweiler puppies frequently adapt well to older dogs or cats in the home, however, older Rottweilers can be more difficult to integrate into a new home with existing pets. This can also be true of bringing in a new dog after your Rottweiler has been “ruler of the roost” for some period of time. Dog-to-dog aggression is influenced by socialization experiences in puppyhood, bloodlines, and sex; males tend to be less tolerant of other males than they are of females. Bitches may be intolerant too, of either sex. Rottweilers who are aggressive against other dogs must be watched carefully when around other dogs. It is an individual matter and can be controlled to a great extent with obedience training of the offender, a necessity if you anticipate having your dog around other dogs in public places.

DESTRUCTIVENESS: The Rottweiler’s level of destructiveness (digging, chewing, etc.) varies with the age, training, temperament, and activity level of the individual. Puppies and young adults less than three years old are the worse offenders. Early training, lots of attention, and obedience training with regular work-outs can help - but the dog left alone for long periods of time may do considerable damage to landscaping, furniture, trees and personal property. Many breeders recommend crate training the puppy and keeping the dog confined while the owner is away. Dogs and puppies should never be left alone with chew toys as pacifiers; they can tear off sizeable chunks and choke in a few minutes.

 SPACE REQUIREMENTS: A large yard with a six foot fence is ideal but adult Rottweilers have been kept successfully in large apartments. The yard is essential if a puppy or young dog is being acquired; it will help to keep the dog exercised and reduce boredom, possibly helping to prevent some destructive behavior. If you don’t have the space, think about a smaller breed. (CRC note: If unsupervised, Rottweilers are never safe left in a yard; they should be in a fenced run, with a top and a paddlock on the door. Children and other dogs can get into a yard and a Rottweiler can, if he so desires, escape a 6 foot fence.)

CLIMATE REQUIREMENTS: The Rottweiler can tolerate cool temperatures better than excessive heat. The dogs should never be left outside in direct sun during the summer; heat stroke comes on very quickly because of the black coat color. Your breeder should be able to advise you on precautions to take for local climate but the dogs must have shelter, regardless of the locale.

SHOW QUALITY: This term is often misunderstood and misused; it can mean something as simple as a puppy with no disqualifying faults at the time of sale. Breeders vary on the amount of experience they’ve had with grading litters, their ability to critically evaluate their own stock, and their understanding of what the term “show quality” means. The serious buyer looking for a potential winner or breeding stock had best spend some time going to dog shows and talking to exhibitors, as well as learning the standard for the breed. Serious or disqualifying faults to avoid include: cryptorchid or unilateral cryptorchid pups, those with undershot bites, missing teeth, long or curly coats, light eyes, hip dysplasia, and unstable temperaments. Overshot bites (upper jaw extends beyond the lower jaw) can correct as a pup matures, however, buying an overshot puppy must be approached with some caution and a written agreement with the breeder is advisable, in the event the jaw does not correct itself. All lines carry one or more of these traits and your breeder should be able to give you a candid description of what is in your dog’s genetic background. One further caution, the nicest puppy in the litter can turn into a very mediocre adult. Be prepared to critically evaluate your animal, because even if you paid a good price, you may still end up with a pet quality adult. Show quality prices range from $900 - $1500 (1991).

PET QUALITY: Many times breeders will offer animals with major faults (bad bites, large white spots on the chest or belly, several missing teeth, and so forth) for a much lower price: $400 - $600 (1991). These animals are not for breeding because these are genetic faults and the conscientious breeder will require that the animal be spayed, neutered or vasectomized before releasing the AKC registration papers, if the surgery hasn’t been done prior to the sale. These Rottweilers make good companions and often their faults are not detectable to any but the most experienced eyes. Temperaments run the natural gamut, but neutering or spaying does not effect the territoriality of protectiveness of the dogs and they make excellent family pets. They must never be bred.

SELECTION OF A BREEDER: A great deal of the success you will have with your dog depends upon what happened to your pet before it came to you; its socialization, genetic background, and early conditioning are the results of the breeder’s efforts. The Rottweiler has recently seen a surge in popularity and many of the breeders now advertising in popular dog magazines have had little experience with the breed, although they may be very sincere in regard for the breed. Carefully investigate breeders before you buy a puppy. Talk to several and ask them for names of people you can contact who have purchased a puppy from them in the last two or three years. If they offer written guarantees against hip dysplasia or any other contingency, ask for names of people to contact who have had to have a dog replaced or money refunded. Guarantees are poor substitutes for careful breeding practices and sometimes contain clauses which make them worthless. Conscientious breeders will be happy to answer your questions, they have nothing to fear.

Not all private breeders are conscientious , but commercial establishments like many kennels specializing in “attack” or “aggressive” Rottweilers, pet stores, and “puppy mills” seldom can give the individualized attention needed by puppies and new owners. If your area has a local Rottweiler club ( and there are several, in all regions of the U.S.), attend meetings or contact them for assistant in locating breeders nearby. A list of breeders is included with this pamphlet. Remember though, a referral is not necessarily an endorsement and it is your responsibility to investigate the breeders you are referred to and make up your own mind about their credentials.

HIP DYSPLASIA: This is a problem in this breed and most breeds of large dogs. It is a developmental disease in which there is a malformation of the hip joint(s), often causing the animal pain as it ages. Puppies should be bought only after careful investigation of the hip status of the parents, and if possible, the grandparents. Parents should be certified clear of dysplasia by the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (O.F.A). (There is no such thing as O.F.A. cleared puppies, as dogs can not be certified until they have reached their second birthday.) The owner of the puppies should be able to produce the reports on the hip status of the parents on official stationary from O.F.A. for you. This is not a guarantee that your puppy won’t develop dysplasia later on; research has documented that normal adults can produce litters with one-third or more of the puppies dysplastic as adults. Genetics is only part of the cause of dysplasia and environmental factors like over-feeding of puppies is probably an important contributor to this disease. It is almost never detectable in animals younger than six months, and then only in the most severe cases. However, continued selection of O.F.A. certified dogs for breeding stock reduces the incidence and severity of Hip Dysplasia.

SELECTION OF YOUR PUPPY: Having thoroughly acquainted yourself with the standard for the breed, carefully evaluated several breeders, hopefully seen a number of puppies and adults, and satisfied that the breeding of the puppies you are looking at fits your needs - you are ready to select your puppy. Begin by observing the behavior of the dam (and sire, if available). Ideally, the dam will be calm and steady, possibly even curious or friendly towards you. If she is reserved, that is quite acceptable by Rottweiler standards, but the openly hostile female which does not respond to her owner’s reassurances, or a shrinking, cowardly, or shy bitch is undesirable. In Germany, the temperament of breeding stock is tested and those showing unstable qualities are excluded from breeding. Disqualifying traits include: shyness; nervousness; unwarranted viciousness; and emotional instability. The temperament of the sire is important too; it is best to observe both parents; if possible.

 Puppies should be playful, inquisitive, and trusting of humans. They should submit to gentle handling and respond to their environment. Clarence Pfaffenberger’s book, New Knowledge of Dog Behavior, is suggested reading before you select your pup. Many pet stores carry this book in stock or will order it for you.

COST OF MAINTAINING AN ADULT: Depending on the size, sex, age, and activity level of your dog it will consume from 15 - 25 lbs. of kibble each week. Good quality kibble costs around $15.00/20 lbs. (1991). Many breeders advise additional meat vegetables and cottage cheese, particularly for puppies. Monthly food expenses would begin at $50.00 and easily run up to $75.00/ month with supplements. Veterinary care for routine immunizations, wormings, etc. vary by area of the country but average $200.00/year. Spaying for a bitch can cost from $70.00 to $200.00, depending upon the area and the vet (neutering for a male can cost from $55.00 to $185.00). The Rottweiler is an expensive breed to maintain, compared to most breeds.

A FINAL NOTE: This introduction is designed to give readers a candid appraisal of some of the traits which are fairly typical of this breed, so that they will be able to make a more knowledgeable decision regarding the suitability of this breed to their circumstances. The Rottweiler is a wonderful breed of dog, but ownership is much more complicated that many uninformed buyers have been led to believe. Please investigate our breed, but above all:

LEARN BEFORE YOU BUY !

c American Rottweiler Club 1992

AKC STANDARD FOR ROTTWEILERS

General Appearance
The ideal Rottweiler is a medium large, robust and powerful dog, black with clearly defined rust markings. His compact and substantial build denotes great strength, agility and endurance. Dogs are characteristically more massive throughout with larger frame and heavier bone than bitches. Bitches are distinctly feminine, but without weakness of substance or structure.

Size, Proportion, & Substance
Dogs - 24 inches to 27 inches. Bitches - 22 inches to 25 inches, with preferred size being mid-range of each sex. Correct proportion is of primary importance, as long as size is within the standard’s range. The length of body, from prosternum to the rearmost projection of the rump, is slightly longer than the height of the dog at the withers, the most desirable proportion of the height to length being 9 to 10. The Rottweiler is neither coarse nor shelly. Depth of chest is approximately fifty percent (50%) of the height of the dog. His bone and muscle mass must be sufficient to balance his frame, giving a compact and very powerful appearance. Serious faults - Lack of proportion, undersized, oversized, reversal of sex characteristics (bitchy dogs, doggy bitches).

Head
Of medium length, broad between the ears; forehead line seen in profile is moderately arched; zygomatic arch and stop well developed with strong broad upper and lower jaws. The desired ratio of backskull to muzzle is 3 to 2. Forehead is preferred dry, however some wrinkling may occur when dog is alert. Expression is noble, alert and self-assured. Eyes of medium size, almond shaped with well fitting lids, moderately deep-set, neither protruding nor receding. The desired color is a uniform dark brown. Serious Faults - Yellow (bird of prey) eyes, eyes of different color or size, hairless eye rim. Disqualification - Entropion, Ectropion. Ears of medium size, pendant, triangular in shape; when carried alertly the ears are level with the top of the skull and appear to broaden it. Ears are to be set well apart, hanging forward with the inner edge lying tightly against the head and terminating at approximately mid-cheek. Serious Faults - Improper carriage (creased, folded or held away from cheek/head.) Muzzle - Bridge is straight, broad at base with slight tapering towards tip. The end of the muzzle is broad with well developed chin. Nose is broad rather than round and always black. Lips - Always black; corners closed; inner mouth pigment is preferred dark. Serious Fault - Total lack of mouth pigment (pink mouth). Bite and Dentition - Teeth 42 in number (20 upper, 22 lower), strong, correctly placed, meeting in a scissors bite - lower incisors touching inside of upper incisors. Serious Faults - Level bite; any missing tooth. Disqualifications - Overshot, undershot (when incisors do not touch or mesh); wry mouth; two or more missing teeth.

Neck, Topline, Body
Neck - Powerful, well muscled, moderately long, slightly arched and without loose skin. Topline - The back is firm and level, extending in a straight line from behind the withers to the croup. The back remains horizontal to the ground while the dog is moving or standing. Body - The chest is roomy, broad and deep, reaching to elbow, with well pronounced forechest and well sprung, oval ribs. Back is straight and strong. Loin is short, deep and well muscled. Croup is broad, of medium length and only slightly sloping. Underline of mature Rottweiler has a slight tuck-up. Males must have two normal testicles properly descended into the scrotum. Disqualifications - Unilateral cryptorchid or cryptorchid males. Tail - Tail docked short, close to body, leaving one or two tail vertebrae. The set of the tail is more important than length. Properly set, it gives an impression of elongation of topline; carried slightly above horizontal when the dog is excited or moving.

Forequarters
Shoulder blade is long and well laid back. Upper arm equal in length to shoulder blade, set so elbows are well under body. Distance from withers to elbow and elbow to ground is equal. Legs are strongly developed with straight, heavy bone, not set close together. Pasterns are strong, springy and almost perpendicular to ground. Feet are round, compact with well arched toes, turning neither in nor out. Pads are thick and hard. Nails short, strong and black. Dewclaws may be removed.

Hindquarters
Angulation of hindquarters balances that of forequarters. Upper thigh is fairly long, very broad and well muscled. Stifle joint is well turned. Lower thigh is long, broad and powerful, with extensive muscling leading into a strong hock  joint. Rear pasterns are nearly perpendicular to the ground. Viewed from the rear, hind legs are straight, strong and wide enough apart to fit with a properly built body. Feet are somewhat longer than the front feet, turning neither in nor out, equally compact with well arched toes. Pads are thick and hard. Nails short, strong and black. Dewclaws must be removed.

Coat
Outer coat is straight, coarse, dense, of medium length and lying flat. Undercoat should be present on neck and thighs, but the amount is influenced by climatic conditions. Undercoat should not show through outer coat. The coat is shortest on head, ears and legs, longest on breeching. The Rottweiler is to be exhibited in the natural condition with no trimming. Fault - Wavy coat. Serious Faults - Open, excessively short, or curly coat; total lack of undercoat; any trimming that alters the length of the natural coat. Disqualification - Long coat.

Color
Always black with rust to mahogany markings. The demarcation between black and rust is to be clearly defined. The markings should be located as follows: a spot over each eye; on cheeks; as a strip around each side of muzzle, but not on the bridge of the nose; on throat; triangular mark on both sides of prosternum; on forelegs from carpus downward to the toes; on inside of rear legs showing down the front of the stifle and broadening out to front of rear legs from hock to toes, but not completely eliminating black from rear of pasterns; under tail; black penciling on toes. The undercoat is gray, tan, or black. Quantity and location of rust markings is important and should not exceed ten percent of body color. Serious Faults - Straw colored, excessive, insufficient or sooty markings; rust marking other than described above; white marking any place on dog (a few rust or white hairs do not constitute a marking). Disqualifications - any base color other than black; absence of all markings

Gait
The Rottweiler is a trotter. His movement should be balanced, harmonious, sure, powerful and unhindered, with strong forereach and a powerful rear drive. The motion is effortless, efficient and ground-covering. Front and rear legs are thrown neither in nor out, as the imprint of hind feet should touch that of forefeet. In a trot the forequarters and hindquarters are mutually coordinated while the back remains level, firm and relatively motionless. As speed increases the legs will converge under body towards a center line.

Temperament
The Rottweiler is basically a calm, confident and courageous dog with a self-assured aloofness that does not lend itself to immediate and indiscriminate friendships. A Rottweiler is self-confident and responds quietly and with a wait-and-see attitude to influences in his environment. He has an inherent desire to protect home and family, and is an intelligent dog of extreme hardness and adaptability with a strong willingness to work, making him especially suited as a companion, guardian and general all purpose dog.

The behavior of the Rottweiler in the show ring should be controlled, willing and adaptable, trained to submit to examination of mouth, testicles, etc. An aloof or reserved dog should not be penalized, as this reflects the accepted character of the breed. An aggressive or belligerent attitude towards other dogs should not be faulted.

A judge shall excuse from the ring any shy Rottweiler. A dog shall be judged fundamentally shy if, refusing to stand for examination, it shrinks away from the judge.

A dog that in the opinion of the judge menaces or threatens him/her, or exhibits any sign that it may not be safely approached or examined by the judge in the normal manner, shall be excused from the ring. A dog that in the opinion of the judge attacks any person in the ring shall be disqualified.

WHERE TO BUY A ROTTWEILER

You have read all the previous information and have decided that a Rottweiler is the dog for you. Now, where do you go to buy this Rottweiler? Let’s first discuss where you don’t want to buy your puppy: pet shops; training/guard kennels or the “backyard breeder”.

Pet Shops
A puppy purchase at a pet shop will more often than not cost more than one of better quality purchased from a reputable breeder. Most pet shop puppies come from Puppy Mills!!!  If you have read any of the articles or seen any of the television shows on these horrible places, you know you don’t want your puppy to come from there. No reputable breeder will sell puppies through a pet store - to be placed by strangers, not even to knowing the names of the new owners, never mind keeping in touch or offering guidance to them!

Training/Guard Kennels
This type of place will be only too happy to sell you an attack trained Rottweiler for several thousand dollars, but can you afford the responsibility of owning this type of dog? NO! There is enough responsibility attached to owning a Rottweiler, without owning an attack trained one. Many of these types of places will sell you a puppy and a training contract to go along with it! Sounds great on the surface, but after one or two lessons of the trainer working with the dog (dragging it around on the leash), they are pronounced “trained” and you are left with doing the training yourself anyway.

These are also the types of places which import dogs from Germany. The Germans sell very few of their quality animals and those they do sell only go to a few select people (reputable breeders). The majority of imports are of poor quality and you will end up paying a substantial amount of money for a “pet”. Also, most dogs in Germany are not a part of the family and they are bred and brought up for a much harder temperament, not suited to the average American family situation.

The majority of training/guard kennels are only interested in the breed because they are making lots of money off them. Go back in a few years and the Rottweiler will have been replaced by the new “in” dog. Some of these types of places breed their own dogs, but most, just like the pet shops, buy litter lots from puppy mills, backyard breeders or disreputable breeders and therefore have no idea of the background of the puppies they sell.

Backyard Breeder
This is the type of “breeder” who has a bitch, meets someone with a male, then they have a litter “so the kids can experience the miracle of birth”; “so they can recoup the cost of the bitch”; “because we love her so much we want another just like her” . . . This type of person knows nothing and breeds without any thought to quality, soundness or temperament.

They often dismiss their ignorance by saying “oh, we’re not trying to breed show dogs, we just breed pets”! Also, many of these puppies are sold without papers because they don’t have papers on either the mother or father or both, so there’s no guarantee that the pups are even purebred!

In all three of the above places, the people involved have made no attempt to learn about the breed, to understand the AKC standard, to understand the Rottweiler’s temperament, etc. They make no attempt to improve the breed and in fact, do a lot to ruin it.

Now, that you know where not to buy your Rottweiler, you need to know where to buy your dog. Not all breeders maintain the same level of responsibility, so the first step in deciding where to buy your Rottweiler is to thoroughly check out the breeder in whose litter you are interested. The quality of the dog you purchase is dependent on his breeder and the ethics to which the breeder subscribes. AKC registration papers alone guarantee nothing other than the dog is purebred.

Try to find a breeder who is respected by other Rottweiler breeders. When paying a visit, allow yourself plenty of time to meet his dogs and to discuss the breed. A reputable breeder will welcome your questions and should not hesitate to answer; he should willingly discuss the Rottweiler’s bad points (all breeds have them) as well as the good points (all breeders like to emphasize the positive points of their breed and in their own dogs, but beware of the breeder whose leads you to believe the Rottweiler as a breed and his dogs are perfect).

 A reputable breeder will usually question you as a potential owner, although very often in talking with you for a few hours he gets the answers he needs without having to specifically ask any questions. He will be interested in knowing why you want a dog and specifically a Rottweiler, want to know what your intentions are (showing, breeding, companion, etc.), to know how you will care for the dog, and possibly even asks for references. This is one indication that you have met someone who cares about the welfare of his “babies” - a very good sign. To a reputable breeder the puppies represent a lot of time, effort and love and if he doesn’t feel that you will provide the home the puppy deserves, you will not be sold that puppy.

 Try to visit as many breeders as possible. If you live in an area where there is only one breeder of the breed of your choice, then get on the telephone and talk to others in various parts of the country. If the breeder near you does not have any pups, ask if you can visit anyway. Most breeders love to talk about their “favorite subject” and if he is a reputable breeder, any breeder he would refer you to would most likely be reputable too. Also, when speaking to a breeder don’t be afraid to speak up if you don’t understand what he is talking about. There is a whole language of “dogs” and for those who “live and breathe” dogs it is sometimes difficult to remember back to the days when it was all new to them too.

The following are some questions to ask, before purchasing a puppy, to help you determine is the breeder is “reputable”:

1. Can you look at the Parents? You should at least see the mother, as well as “meet”her. Do you like her temperament? You may not be able to see the father as many breeders ship their dogs, or use chilled or frozen semen, in order to breed to the Stud dog of their choice, but they usually will have a picture as well as other information.

2. Why was this particular breeding made?

3. Do the Parents have sound temperaments? What can they tell you about the individual puppy’s temperament? Did they temperament test the pups? What steps have been taken so far to socialize the puppies? Based upon his knowledge of the parents and grandparents, a Reputable breeder will inform yo about the puppy and predict what to expect in terms of intelligence, disposition, conformation, et.

4. If you are looking for a show/breeding puppy you need to know, what are its conformation faults? What are the parents conformation faults? Every dog has at least one fault and probably more. Are the faults something you can live with? How did the breeder determine which pup is show and which is pet? How much experience has he had in evaluating litters? What does the breeder expect from you in buying this show pup? Some breeders require you to show the dog a minimum times per year. What happens if the puppy turns out not to be show quality? Is there a guarantee? Just as importantly if you are buying a pet puppy you should know why this puppy is being sold as a pet rather than for show/breeding purposes.

5. Have the dogs been shown at all? Ask to see the show results and proof of any titles. If they haven’t been shown - why not? Do not believe answers like "we breed for working ability” (do they show in obedience, tracking or Schutzhund?), or “American judges do not know what a good Rottweiler looks like”, or “it’s too political”, or “we don’t have time for that, besides I know our dogs are good.” These are poor excuses for “I want to make money at the expense of the Rottweiler Breed.” No one can do a responsible job of breeding Rottweilers if they are not also involved in showing and working them - these are the “proving grounds” of a breeding program.

6. Ask to see the AKC registration papers and OFA certifications?

7. Do the dogs have any genetic problems of which you should be aware?

8. What are the health histories of the Parents? the puppies? Have they been wormed? Have they had their shots? What kind and how many?

9. See where the bitch and the puppies have been living. Is it clean and dry? (Do not be misled by the surroundings. A disreputable breeder can be someone with multiple dogs and a fancy kennel set-up while the reputable breeder may be someone with just one bitch and a fenced yard. Remember Rottweilers are family dogs.)

10. Do the bitch and the pups look happy and healthy? If you can’t tell, take someone with you that knows how to look for problems

11. How does the breeder interact with his dog(s)? Is there a feeling of mutual love and respect?

12. How many litters has the bitch had? How often has she been bred? Once a year is enough and never before she is two and OFA’d. How did pups from her previous litters, if any, turn out?

13. How many litters has the stud dog sired? A stud dog also should never be bred before he is two and OFA’d. How have pups from his previous litters, if any, turned out?

14. Is there more than one litter on the premises? What precautions has the breeder taken to keep them from getting mixed up? Also, is he breeding with restraint or flooding the market?

15. Ask about the breeder’s feeding program. What written instructions and information does the breeder provide the buyer?

16. Ask for names of some buyers to see if they have had any problems and if they are satisfied with the pups they bought and the way problems, if any, were resolved. A reputable breeder should have no qualms about providing you with references. This is most important if you are buying from a breeder in another part of the country who you are unable to meet personally.

What is a Pet?

Breeders classify their puppies as either show/breeding quality or pet. An experienced breeder spends a lot of time watching his litter as they are developing and is able to pick out puppies that he feels have faults which would not justify the time and expense required for a show career or to be used in a breeding program. Often times these faults are very slight and unnoticeable to the untutored eye, and have nothing to do with the health, temperament or overall good looks of the dog. These puppies are sold as PETS rather than SHOW quality. Reputable breeders either provide AKC non-breeding registration papers or require these puppies to be spayed or neutered before furnishing the AKC registration. In order to improve the breed, breeding should be done from the best quality dogs; it is unnecessary to produce pets from pet quality dogs - plenty are produced from champions!

What is Hip Dysplasia?

Hip dysplasia is a malformation of the hip joint; to function smoothly and well there must be a good fit between the ball and socket of the hip. Signs of hip dysplasia often appear in the dog during the rapid growth periods of 4 to 9 months of age. These signs vary from slight irregularities of gait to crippling hip disease. Sometimes these initial symptoms improve or disappear as the dog gets older and many dogs never exhibit any outward signs of the disease; however, arthritis of the hip joints is usually present in the older dog with hip dysplasia.

The only way to diagnose hip dysplasia is by x-ray examination. The Orthopediac Foundation for Animals in Columbia, Missouri will evaluate these x-rays at any age. However, 2 years of age is considered the minimum age for determination through x-ray of desirable hip conformation; therefore, OFA will not certify hips to be within normal limits until that age. At that age, the x-rays are taken locally and then submitted to OFA for evaluation. These x-rays are sent to 3 Board Certified Radiologists around the country and these 3 opinions determine the rating of the dogs hips. There are 7 possible ratings: Excellent, Good and Fair are given to dogs with normal hips; borderline is given to hips of indeterminate status and the dog needs to be x-rayed again and re-evaluated in 4 to 6 months; and Mild, Moderate and Severe are given to hips showing signs of dysplasia.

If a dogs hips are found to be normal, then a certification number is assigned to the dog. For Rottweilers the certification number begins with RO-, followed by a number which is the certification number, then the rating, then the age of the dog when x-rayed, followed by the sex; if there is a “T” present it means the dog is tattooed. For example: R0-22110G27F-T: this is a Rottweiler who's hips are determined to be within normal limits and assigned the certification number of 22110; the rating is good; the x-rays were taken at 27 months of age; and the dog is a female and she is tattooed. Previous to October 1987, the rating, age and sex were not included in the number i.e., RO-1742-T.

In all cases ask to see the blue certificate issued by OFA, don’t accept a breeders word that the hips are okay. Of course, if a breeder has used a stud dog other than one of his own, he will not be in possession of the original certificate, but he should be able to show you a copy. It is a good idea to copy down this number and verify it by calling OFA at 314-442-0418.

Hip dysplasia is an inherited defect with a polygenic mode of inheritance; therefore only dogs who are OFA certified should be used for breeding. However, environmental factors influence the conditions of the hip joints as well. So with that in mind, ask and follow your breeder’s advice on these factors.

What about buying an older dog?

Older dogs are available through sale or adoption for many reasons. Sometimes a breeder will have a dog that failed to live up to its potential as a show dog or sometimes a dog will be available whose hips did not certify with OFA. Very often dogs whose hips radiographically show signs of hip dysplasia never exhibit any clinical signs. In both cases, these dogs are no longer considered for breeding but they can and do make wonderful pets.

Some of the advantages of buying an older dog can include: already housebroken; some basic obedience training; a less destructive dog - past the chewing stage; a dog that can tolerate being left alone for 8 or more hours ( a good asset for a working family), etc. Also, in an older animal you get what you see. It is important however, in considering an older dog that it be well socialized. A dog that has been a part of a family should be a fine choice, whereas a dog that has spent most of his life in a kennel run is probably a poor choice for the average dog owner.

While most older dogs for sale are being sold as pets, occasionally a breed will have a show dog for sale. These are more expensive than a show pup; however, the dog may already have points towards his championship; the hips may have preliminary OFA evaluation or even be certified; may be proven as a stud dog or brood bitch, etc. So for those wanting more of a “sure thing” an older show quality dog may be the best choice.

Another source for an older dogs are the Rottweiler club rescue leagues. They rescue Rottweilers from the pound and evaluate them for possible placement. Each of these dogs is an individual case: those with a bad temperaments or serious health problems are put down; some need the care an attention of an experienced Rottweiler owner; whereas others readily adjust to a new home and life.

Most rescue leagues and breeders when placing/selling an older dog will give the new owners a trial period to make sure they are able to adjust to each other. Buying or adopting an older dog may be the way to go for may potential dog owners; those who have chosen this route swear by it. So, if you are looking for a loving companion, don't fail to consider the older dog.

REMEMBER . . .

Don’t buy a pup under 7 weeks of age.

Don’t buy a pup on the spur of the moment.

Don’t be in a hurry - you may regret it later. A reputable breeder may have a waiting list.

Don’t buy over the phone or by mail, unless the breeder is well known and reputable and you have thoroughly checked him out.

Don’t buy from a pet store - no reputable breeder will sell to such an outlet.

Don’t accept oral promises - have everything in writing and make sure you get a copy.

Don’t pay for the dog until the contract is signed.

Owning a Rottweiler is a big responsibility and requires a large commitment on the part of the entire family.

A Rottweiler takes a lot of care, attention and training to develop into a well behaved pet, but in return for your time, effort and love, your Rottweiler will give you a lifetime of enjoyment, devotion and loyalty.